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Last Updated ( Saturday, 28 June 2008 13:41 )
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Acclimation Made Easy

By Guy Clayden, on 26-06-2008 16:20

Views : 84    

Favoured : 10

Published in : Information, Fish

LiveAquaria.com

The purpose of acclimation is simple:

The water that the fish or corals are packaged in has different temperature, pH, and salinity parameters than your aquarium. Fish, and especially invertebrates (including corals), are very sensitive to even minor changes in these parameters, so proper acclimation is the key to ensuring their successful relocation.

We recommend either of the two acclimation methods explained below, and wish to remind you the acclimation process should never be rushed. Also, remember to keep your aquarium lights off for at least four hours after the specimens are introduced into the aquarium to help them further adjust.

Though not a requirement of our acclimation procedures, we highly recommend that all aquatic life be quarantined in a separate aquarium for a period of two weeks to reduce the possibility of introducing diseases and parasites into your aquarium and to ensure they are accepting food, eating properly, and are in optimum health before their final transition to your main display.

Last update: 28-06-2008 13:42

Keywords : Acclimating
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Good Starter Fish for Saltwater Aquariums

By Guy Clayden, on 23-06-2008 14:37

Views : 60    

Favoured : 12

Published in : Information, Fish


BigAl'sOnline

Once all the research, planning and waiting is complete and the aquarium is full of water and has finally finished cycling you will finally be ready to introduce your first fish.

It is important to ensure that you make the right choice though as there are some fish which are suitable to be added at this stage and there are fish which are not.

Do you know what you are looking for in the selection of your first fish?

Firstly and foremost the fish you choose must be relatively hardy. The reason for this is that the saltwater aquarium is new and the water will not be completely stable. Another reason is that as aquarists we all make mistakes at one time or another and with having a hardy fish they are more forgiving to these mistakes.

You will probably have an idea as to the type of fish you would like to keep in your aquarium therefore it is imperative that this fish you choose now will be compatible with future tank mates. If you added an aggressive fish for example at the start then whenever you decided to add a new fish there would be fighting in the aquarium. Not what you want at this stage really is it.

Which fish are good fish to start with?


Last update: 28-06-2008 14:02

Keywords : Beginner Fish
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Basic Water Parameters

By Guy Clayden, on 23-06-2008 14:12

Views : 49

Favoured : 10

Published in : Information, Water Quality

That Fish Place/That Pet Place Logo

 

Please note that these are guideline numbers (apart from toxic items such as ammonia) - I can hear aquarists saying that theirs is different and their reef is fantastic!

 

Ammonia NH3 (toxic)

Zero (undetectable)

Nitrite NO2 (toxic)

Zero (undetectable)

Nitrate NO3 (nuisance algae nutrient)

10 ppm (parts per million) or less. As low as possible, better undetectable.

Phosphate PO4 (nuisance algae nutrient)

0.03 ppm or less. Undetectable is probably best. High phosphate can interfere with hard coral function.

pH (stable as possible)

8.2 to 8.4. (Note: the wider range of 8.0 to 8.4 is acceptable provided the measurement is stable. Some healthy reefs even run at 7.9.)

Alkalinity (‘buffer’) (stable as possible)

3.0 to 4.0 meq/l. (Can also be measured in dKH, multiply meq/l by 2.8. Thus dKH would be 8.4 to 11.2. There isn’t a need for such precision, so it can be 8.0 to 11.0. Seawater level is around 2.5 meq/l, the higher aquarium level is considered to be beneficial.

Temperature (stable as possible)

75 to 80 deg F (24 to 27 deg C).

Salinity (stable as possible)

This is measured in ppt (parts per thousand). However, here Specific Gravity (SG) is used as the majority of aquarists use this. The range that is recommended is 1.024 to 1.026. For a reef system the higher reading is possibly more advantageous.

Calcium (stable as possible)

400 to 480 ppm.

The above list represents the major test areas for a reef aquarium. There are other additives available, such as , but there is some controversy over the need for it, and others. when regular water changes are done.

Last update: 28-06-2008 13:47

Keywords : temperature
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Nano Tanks and Beginners

By Guy Clayden, on 24-06-2008 13:19

Views : 57    

Favoured : 13

Published in : Information, Aquarium


Drs. Foster and Smith Inc.

A beginner is more likely to make mistakes than when some experience has been gained. That is true for most things including keeping a marine aquarium.

A larger aquarium, as large as can be fitted and afforded, has always been the normal advice to a beginner. This is because if the aquarist makes an error with, say, an additive there is more seawater to absorb the error. Also, if the fish are overfed, which is a common ands understandable mistake, the effect on the seawater will not be so severe so quickly. Routine water changes should be being done, but nevertheless water quality would suffer. In addition, a larger volume of water is less subject to variations in outside temperatures. If warm weather arrives then a small amount of water will heat up more quickly than a larger amount.


Last update: 28-06-2008 14:02

Keywords : Fish
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